Boot or shoe sewing machine



(No ModeL) I 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 W. G0MEY.'

BOOT 0R SHOE SEWING MAGHINE.

No. 400,439. PatentedA 11 2, 1889 Witqess as.

PATENT OFFICE.

WILLARD COMEY, OF VVESTBOROUGH, MASSACHUSETTS.

BOOT OR SHOE SEWINGMACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. {100,439, dated April 2, 1889.

Application filed July 23,1884. Serial No. 138,570. (No model.) I

.To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, WILLARD 00mm, of Westborough, in the county of Worcester and State of Massachusetts, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Boot or Shoe Sewing Machines, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates more particularly to improvements in machines for sewing on welts, and is a machine in which a feed and a rotary horn are combined with a guide controlling all four sides of the welt.

My new machine produces a result not heretofore attained, as will befully set forth hereinafter.

Inthe accompanying drawings, which illustrate a sewing-machine embodying my invention, Figurel is a side elevation. Fig 2 isan end elevation, and Fig. 3 is a side elevation showing the needle, welt-guide, and part of the horn. Figs. 4, 5, and 6 are enlarged views of the welt-guide, and Fig. 7 is an enlarged view of the parts shown in Fig. 2 to better illustrate a needle-feed in combination with the horn and welt-guide.

The sewing on of welts when the welt is secured by stitches which pass directly through the welt, upper, and inner sole-that is, from the outside to the inside of the shoeI have heretofore found practically very dit'ficult, especially around thetoe, as the welt must be of stout leather, and is usually nearly an inch l in width.

The combination, in, a sewing-machine, of the three elements-via, a feed, a welt-guide, controlling the four sides of a welt, and a rotating horn-admirably adapts the machine for sewing welts'around the toe, and no previous machine, so far as I am aware, has had these elements in combination.

The machine described in my Patent No. 250,647 shows the horn and feed, but is difficult to operate successfully, especially on thin or soft welts, the edges of which are apt to turn ,up, so that the edge-gage will not act to keep the stitches at the proper distance from the edge.

In my improved machine the weltguide A holds the welt in proper relation with the needle, for the weltis pulled through the weltguide by the feeding mechanism,thereby insuring the properattachme-nt of the welt in spite of the fact that it is a strip of leather which must be upset on one edge and elongated on the other edge while it is sewed around the toe and in the shank, when the welt is sewed to the upper and inner sole by stitches passing directly through all three from the inside to the outside of the shoe. To insure the stitches being at the proper distance from the edge,l employ a gage, B. The shoe is supported on the rotating horn C, and is guided by the upper supported by the edge of the inner sole and the gage B. The horn O properly presents the shoe for sewing around the toe and a lateral motion of the needle provides the proper feed. The lateral movement of needle D is the best feed known to me, and is therefore the feed shown and described in this application.

I have found that'my'novel combination is the best machine for doing this kind of welt-sewing, and the only one, so far as I know, by means of which the welt can be sewed to the upper and inner sole by a straight needle passing directly through the welt, upper, and inner sole, from the outside to the inside of the shoe, without previous tacking or fasteninga result due entirely to my novel combination, and one not heretofore attained in any machine known to me. By reference to the drawings this novel combination will be readily understood. The needle-bar d is connected to the arm F by means of the link f, one end of which is adjustable in a slot, f, in the arm F, for the purpose of regulating the length of feed, and consequently the length of stitch. The arm F is fast to one end of the rock-shaft f which is connected by means of the arm f (fast to the other end of the rock-shaft f to a cam or eccentric, f*, on the main shaft H. The

cam f by means of these connections causes the rock-shaft f and its arm F to oscillate, which motion is communicated by means of the link f to the needle-bar d, whereby the needle is caused to move at the proper time, before rising above the stock, to feed the shoe for another stitch. The usual thread-carrier M by means of the lever m, pivoted at m,

and connected at its lower end by means of the rod m and shaft m to gearing inside of the horn 0. way of actuating the tln'ead-carrier, it is not deemed necessary to show this gearing in the drawings. as shownthat is, fast to an arm, a, which is jointed to the slotted piece a which is held to the bracket (1 by means of screws-in order that the welt-guide may be accurately adjusted, and also that it may be readily swung out of the way by swinging the arm a when the work is to be put on or taken off the horn. The arm 1) supports the bracketb,which carries the gage B. This arm Z) also serves asastop for the swinging arm a, for when the welt is pulled along by the lateral motion of the needle the welt-guide A is prevented from moving by the arm a bearing against the arm I). The lever 12 is used to swing the arm I), bracket Z), and gage B out of the way when the work is to be put on or taken off the horn, and the spring b holds the arm I) in place. Bracket 'b is adjusted vertically on arm I) by means of a setscrew, b and arm I) is limited in its movementtoward the horn by means of set-screw b. The presser-bar J carries the foot j, which in the construction shown bears upon the weltguide A, forcing it down upon the upper and clamping the upper and inner sole between the welt-guide and the horn while the needle descends, and also while the needle makes the first part of its upstroke, to free its lower end from the thread-carrier and the horn preparatory to moving laterally to feed the stock. The presser-bar J is actuated in a manner too well known. to require description. The weltguide A is moved slightly downward by the pressure of the foot j j and slightly upward by the resiliency of the arm a as the foot jj is liftedthat is, welt-guide A and foot 3' j make the presser-foot. The welt-guide A is readily adjusted for difi'erent widths of welts by means of the sliding gage a, as best shown in Figs. 4, 5, and 6, and consists of four walls, two of which control the upper and lower sides of the welt, while the other two control This being the usual well-known The welt-guide A is best mounted the edges. The needle-hole is made in that part of the welt which is controlled by these four walls, thus presenting the welt properly to the needle.

The operation is as follows: The shoe is placed on the horn O with that part of the upper near the edge of the inner sole against the edge-gage B. The end of the welt is passed through the welt-guide A and laid on the upper. The needle now descends and passes through the welt, upper, and inner sole. The needle then takes the thread from the thread-carrier in the usual way and rises until its point clears the surface of the horn C, when the needle moves sidewisc to feed the stock, and then completes its Vertical motion. It then moves laterally, ready for its next vertical motion down through the welt, upper, and inner solo. The presser-bar J forces the welt-guide A down upon the upper and inner sole all the time, except when the needle moves to feed the upper and inner sole and to pull the welt through the welt-guide. Ordinarily, the welt is sewed on first near the heel at one side, and as the sewing progresses toward the toe at one side the horn is stationary; but while sewing around the toe the horn is turned 011 its axis, the shoe and the horn moving together about one hundred and eighty degrees, and the welt is then sewed on along the other side of the shoe.

\Vhat I claim is 1. In a sewing-machine, the combination, with the weltguide A, having an orifice through which the welt passes, of the rotary horn O, the edge-guide B, and a presser-bar, all substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

2. In a sewing-machine, the combination of guide A, having a welt-passage through it, the presser j j, bearing upon the welt-guide, the rotary horn O, and the gage B, arranged and operating substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

WILLARD COMEY.

\Vitnesses:

J. E. MAYNADIER, J OHN R. Snow. 

